Style & character:
I’ve long been an admirer of the talented young designer Andre Fu, who designed the luxuriant, wonderfully calming interiors at The Upper House in Hong Kong and The Fullerton Bay in Singapore, so I was expecting big things here. However, this property is far less eye-catching, in a safe palette of white, cream and sea greens, with bronze accents so subtle, they’re easily missed. The high quality of the materials and furnishings are obvious, but there’s an international chain hotel, could-be-anywhere feel.
Service & facilities:
Food & drink:
Even if you’re not staying at the hotel, you should come to dine at Front Room, helmed by Thai chef Rungthiwa Chummongkhon, who has returned to the city with the intention of earning a Michelin star after 12 years in Denmark honing her skills at the likes of Kokkedal Slot and Noma. I would put my money on her swiping at least one star, possibly two, with some of the most exciting dishes I’ve seen in this food mad city – crab meat salad with curried hollandaise in a crisp celeriac cup; juicy deboned chicken wings spiced, stuffed and served with buttered raspberry puree; and basil ice cream with white chocolate mousse and mango. My only quibble: the unflatteringly bright lighting.
Breakfast, taken in the sunny all-day dining restaurant The Brasserie, is divine – piles of tropical fruits, pastries, cold cuts, dim sum, sushi and chili-topped noodles on the buffet, plus a decadent à la carte selection. Try the silky truffle cream poached eggs. A separate lift on the other side of the lobby leads to the 56th floor, where the Bull and Bear steak restaurant and two elegant city-view bars are located.